Where To Stay: Lake Como

The word dramatic would not be doing the drive into Lake Como justice. As you drop down from the surrounding hills to the water’s edge, you are met with a vista you cannot take your eyes off. Your eyes are drawn up to the nearby peaks of the snow capped Alps, back down to the shimmering lake, left and right taking in the grand, imposing villas and villages. This is a special corner of the world.

It is little wonder the lake has long been a retreat from the oppressive Milanese heat in the summer months, though it no longer offers the solitude it once did. Choosing the right hotel, however, can still take you to another world.

That choice starts with geography. Do not underestimate the size of Lake Como, or the width of the roads. Best explored by boat, the towns of Bellagio, Varenna and Tremezzo place you within easy reach of the central lake’s best-known villas and villages, while Como, Cernobbio, Moltrasio and Torno are positioned for faster access from Milan and a base farther south.

Bold, colourful and exuberantly maximalist, Grand Hotel Tremezzo is one of Lake Como’s most recognisable grande dames. Its atmosphere is decidedly lively: expect a glamorous, sociable resort rather than a hushed lakeside retreat. Positioned at the heart of the lake’s celebrated central section, it makes an excellent base for travellers who want to explore by day before returning to somewhere with plenty of energy of its own.

You can alternate between three pools; one floating on the lake, another hidden within the gardens and a third indoors at the spa, or take to the water aboard one of the hotel’s vintage motor launches. Bellagio lies directly across the lake, while neighbouring Villa Carlotta and its botanical gardens are within walking distance. The Greenway del Lago winds through the villages and landscapes of Tremezzina towards Lenno and Villa del Balbianello, passing Romanesque churches, quiet hamlets and glimpses of Isola Comacina along the way. More energetic travellers can hike to the cliffside church of San Martino, follow the pilgrimage route at Sacro Monte di Ossuccio or climb Monte Grona for far-reaching views across the lake and surrounding peaks.

For something more private, Villa Sola Cabiati lies less than a mile from the bustle of the main hotel. This exquisitely preserved Neoclassical villa is available for exclusive use, with six suites sleeping up to 12 guests, a private pool, formal gardens, its own jetty and a dedicated team that includes a butler and private chef. With all the advantages of Tremezzo’s central location but the atmosphere of a secluded private residence, it is an exceptional setting for a family gathering or group celebration.

For something intimate and romantic, retreat to Passalacqua, Grand Hotel Tremezzo’s exquisitely restored sister property. Set beneath the charming village of Moltrasio on the lake’s western shore, this 18th-century villa feels less like a hotel and closer to a glamorous private home. Its 24 unique rooms are layered with rich colours, antiques and intricate Italian craftsmanship while acres of terraced gardens tumble towards the water through citrus trees and fountains. Its private jetty and boat fleet make day trips remarkably easy and its position favours the offerings of the southern and western shores.

In contrast to the ornate grand dames that line Lake Como’s shores, Il Sereno offers a quieter, stylish and contemporary expression of lakeside luxury. Each of its 40 suites face the water, with floor-to-ceiling windows and private terraces that frame the uninterrupted views across the lake. Days are spent beside the freshwater infinity pool and exploring the shoreline aboard one of the hotel’s custom-built wooden boats. Beneath the property’s original stone arches, Il Sereno Al Lago serves inventive, Michelin-recognised cooking, drawing together Lombardy lake fish with a southern Italian influence. Set in the peaceful village of Torno, Il Sereno feels wonderfully removed yet just a short journey from Como where the Como-Brunate funicular offers sweeping lake views and the CASABIANCA showcases modern and contemporary art in a reimagined 1930s villa.

At the point where Lake Como divides towards Como and Lecco, Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni presides over Bellagio with all the ceremony of a bygone era. A strong choice for travellers in want of old-world romance and an unapologetic celebration of traditional glamour. Inside, the grand interiors are well furnished with antiques and the vast ornate windows overlook the water, the hotel’s gardens or terracotta rooftops of the village. Its essence is historic and occasionally a little time-worn, which is fundamental to its charm.

Its position is difficult to better. Step beyond the hotel and Bellagio’s cobbled lanes unfold immediately, lined with silk ateliers, ceramic shops and small boutiques. The lakeside gardens of Villa Melzi are a gentle walk away, while Varenna and Villa Monastero are just a boat journey away. Back at the hotel, days drift between the lakefront pool, private beach club and shaded terraces. Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is most suited to those who want to experience Lake Como in its most classical form without sacrificing the freedom to explore.